HEy from Varanasi! I arrived this morning by train. I could not have had a worse seat...it was the seat nearest the toilets. Its so ironic because on my previous train ride from Bangalore to Chennai, as I was returning to my seat from the toilet, I was feeling sorry for those seated nearest the toilets cos of the stench of the toilets. Now I was seated on one of those sorry seats for 12 hours! It was worse because my seat was in the sleeper class (there are generally five classes on long-journey trains: 1st class AirCon, 2-tier AC, 3-tier AC, sleeper class, chair class) which meant there were no cabin door separting the seating area and the toilets. In the AC classes there would be this door to contain the air con.

The first word that Varanasi impressed on me was 'old'. I dont know if its because of the crumbling buildings or the cramped alleyways. Immediately I got lost the moment the autorickshaw decided to let me off in Godualia. I had asked to auto driver to take me to Dasawamedh Ghat, where I thought Ill start my journey at the central riverbank ghat. But autos werent allowed 1-2 km within the Ganges River because of motorcycles and bicycle rickshaws congesting the streets. So I was left with no choice but to walk the distance to the ghat. I quickly got myself lost after deciding to turn into this lively alleyway. I was in fact heading towards Vishwanath Temple. Non-hindus arent allowed inside so half an hour later (after looking at the many shops lining the alley) I went back the way I came but turned into another alleyway. I must be wandered into a dozen or more alleyways when I heard faint chanting some distance behind me. The chanting grew louder and I turned around alarmed to see two men carrying a bamboo stretcher on their shoulders. The stretcher was covered with a bright red silk cloth. It dawned on me that they were carrying a corspe. I was stunned. I decided to walk faster and let them pass in the junction ahead because there was no room for them and me in the narrow alleyway. After I let the procession pass, I decided to follow them. After all they would be heading towards the ghats. We soon reached the bank of the Ganges. And so it was that the first ghat I witnessed was a burning ghat. Quite a shock because I had anticipated the first ghat I see in Varanasi would be one of pilgrims bathing. After consulting my LP, I found out that the burning ghat I was at was the Manikarnika Ghat and that it is the main burning ghat and the most auspicous place to be cremated. I just sat and watched the process of burning from afar because of the huge billows of smoke from the cremation. I saw the stretcher that I had followed were taken to the bank and doused in the waters. I was told by a man sitting next to me that it takes approximately 6 hours for a body to be cremated. In the short time I was there, I saw several bodies carried to the waters ready to be cremated. Bodies are publically marched through the streets to the ghats. There is such a public affair made of death, I just wonder what it must be like living in Varanasi and to be reminded of death each day.

Im writing this in the late afternoon..let me check...its 5pm. The boatman, who took me for my boatride on the Ganges told me at about 6pm I should watch puja being performed at the central ghat. Hopefully the sun will set about then.

well, Ill be off now and get myself lost in the alleyways again :P

See ya